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History Of The Mailbox

Thursday, March 4, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

BlackChaletMailboxsmallLetterboxes and mail slots were first used in Paris, France in the late 1700s.  They became more popular in Europe in the middle-late 1800s when the British Post Office decided to begin mail delivery and asked people to install letterboxes.  Previously, all mail was picked up at the local post office. 

In 1863, the U.S. Postal Service began the Free City Delivery.  Mailmen delivered mail to each door waiting for a patron to answer the knock.  This method of mail delivery took extra time and patrons were not always home or able to answer the door.   Patrons began to install mail slots and letterboxes at their doors. 

The Rural Free Delivery (RFD) was introduced by the U.S. Postal service in 1896.   The Postal Service researched ways to save time and solve the problem with mail-carriers delivering mail to the scattered rural patrons.  They proposed that mailboxes be placed at curbsides and roadways.   In 1923, the Post Office mandated that every household have a mailbox to receive mail rather than a tin, basket or wooden box.    Soon after, mailboxes sported a signal flag.  At first the flag was used to signal both incoming and outgoing mail. 

In 1915, Roy J. Joroleman, a Postal employee invented the curved, tunnel-shaped mailbox that we are familiar with today.  The shaped was designed to prevent water and snow from collecting in the mailbox.   This design has been the top-selling type of mailbox since the Postmaster General released the design for manufacture and production.  

 Since that time, the U.S. Postal Service has retained the authority to approve specifications for size and characteristics of all curbside mailboxes.   Approved mailboxes are always stamped with “U.S. MAIL”  and “APPROVED BY THE POSTMASTER GENERAL”.

Gifts for a Gardener

Wednesday, March 3, 2010
posted by MyGardenSanctuary

For the avid gardener or green thumb on your holiday shopping list, here are a few gift ideas sure to perk up their garden this spring and summer. Shopping for gardening gifts during the holidays can also yield some great discounts!garden statues

~Garden Fountain – great for bringing water, one of the four natural elements, to your garden, and also for the sweet serenade of trickling water.

~Windchimes – the windchime is a timeless gift that offers visual and aural appeal to an outdoor space.

~Garden Statues – these bring earth, another of the four natural elements of your garden, and provide great aesthetic appeal.

~Birdfeeders – great for attracting animals of the avian breed to your garden; birds will also eat harmful insects and prevent some insects from nesting in the yard.

Trellis Of Very Aromatic Roses Possible

Thursday, February 25, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

20090607_0062A rose gardener will generally shop for a rose plant with a specific genetic trait such as resistance to pests, adapability to temperature, size, bloom retention, etc, but the one trait that everyone savors in the perfect rose is the scent. Likewise, a garden vegetable with the most flavor is everyones favorite choice. Unfortunately, over the years as we have improved the genetic traits of plants, we have often sacrificed their smell or flavor. That may change due to a genetic find by the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

The University of Florida has discovered the genes that control the mixture of chemicals that make a flower’s scent or a vegetable’s flavor. This find will help researchers learn to control the levels of these compounds to adjust or increase a flower’s fragrance. The research will involve isolating the chain reaction in a plant that is responsible for producing scent without affecting the other traits of the flower.

This research has already produced some interesting information. The researchers have found that the gene which produces the compound giving rose oil its scent will also make tomatoes taste better, thus they are able to manipulate that gene to create more flavorful tomatoes. They are already working with plant breeders and specialists to get new tomatoes and roses on the market. This will only be the beginning.

As our senses are in tune to nature, we use them to evaluate and enjoy the plants around us. Now, the sense of smell and taste will become a greater part of that process. Imagine a trellis full of roses that fill the whole garden with their wonderful aroma, tantalizing your sense of smell as you walk by. What a wonderful idea!

Tips For Planting A Side Planter Container

Thursday, February 18, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

20090908_0136Last year was my first experience using side planting containers.  As with any new beginner in a project, I learned some do’s and don’ts.  Below, I will recap how to plant a side planter and some tips that I learned.  Since I use Bloom Master Planters, my information will be directed more to their use.

When planting a side planter container, you want to use a good potting mix.  Do not use potting soil or garden soil as they are too heavy for the pot and the plants.  If you are re-using a container from a previous planting, be sure to wash and disinfect the container.  Pre-moisten the potting mix, but don’t make it wet.  Fill the container with the potting mix up to the bottom row of holes.  Insert the rootball of the plant through the hole from the outside in.  If the rootball is larger than 2″, you may gently push the plant through the hole from the inside.  (As a note, I have read that some gardeners will dip the rootball in water until the roots are saturated and then firmly squeeze most of the water out before placing in the container.)  Add more potting mix up to the next row of holes and pat gently.  Repeat this process until all layers of holes are complete.  It is not necessary to plant every hole.  Fill the container with potting mix and flowers up to within 1 1/2″ of the top of the container.

When planting the top of the container, the plants should be no more than 3″ apart.  I flattened the rootball of the plants that went along the outside edge of the container and planted them at an angle so that the plant leaned slightly over the edge.  Cover the roots with potting mix and pat gently.  Do not cover the stems with potting mix.  Place a centerpiece plant in the center if so desired.  When finished, water gently until water comes out of the bottom holes.

Some tips that I learned about side planters are as follows: 1. Do not pack the potting mix tightly, the plant roots need access to oxygen to live.  2.  If you use potting mix with a fertilizer, do not fertilize again until the plants indicate  they need it-they may or may not not need any all season.  3. If fertilizing, use a good liquid fertilizer, which can be applied weekly if the plants so require.   4.  Water slowly with a sprayer or watering jug.  If you water too quickly, the soil and plants may not have time to absorb the water as needed.  5. Do not let the container dry out-if you do, water slowly for good absorption.  You may also need to spray the sides for the holes to absorb water.  6. Trim plants as needed during the season to keep even if that is your desired look.

If you have never tried a side planting container, they can be alot of fun.  You can create many different looks with a wide variety of plants.  I know that I will be anxious to plant mine.

What is an Arbor?

Monday, February 15, 2010
posted by MyGardenSanctuary

garden arborsIf you’re at all interested in increasing the aesthetic appeal of your garden, you’ve probably looked into adding some kind of trellis or arbor. But if you’re unfamiliar with these products, the exact definition of an arbor might be a little hazy. If that’s the case, an arbor is sometimes known as a pergola. The terms are used almost interchangeably. By whatever name, garden arbors are designed to offer people a shaded walkway in a garden.

These arbors are often constructed of pillars with cross beams for support as well as heavy lattice work. Over and around the structure, vines and other types of flowers are trained to grow. The most common flowers and vines to be used for this purpose are grape vines, bougainvillea, and other climbing or flowering plants. If the main purpose of the arbor is merely shade, some people use a pervasive plant like ivy, which is difficult to kill but offers a thick covering and lots of shade.

Starting Your Seeds Indoors

Thursday, February 11, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

bloom master pic 06 048If you are as anxious as I am to get started, you may be thinking of starting your seeds indoors.  (Before doing so, please do not start too early unless you have a greenhouse to maintain the proper tempatures and light levels.)  By starting seeds indoor, you can have your garden or flowers ready for that warm weather that is coming.

You will need a clean, disenfected container with excellant drainage, a sterile, freely-draining potting medium, grow lights and a location with the correct tempature and ventilation.  To start, you should use pre-moistened potting mix (not soggy) and fill the container to within 1/4″ of the top.  Level the soil and make sure there are no air pockets.  Follow the instructions on the seed packet for planting.  Place the containers in natural light and keep the soil moist until the plants have sprouted.  The containers can be placed in a clear, unsealed plastice bag to keep the humidy high while waiting for sprouting.  After sprouting, remove the plastic bag and move the container under the grow lights for sixteen to eighteen hours a day.  The lights should be six to eight inches from the plants.  If they are higher, the plants will become “leggy”.  As the seedlings grow, move the lights accordingly.  The tempature should be around 70 degrees in the day and close to 60 degrees at night to have strong compact plants.  Feed your seedlings with water soluble fertilizer at 1/4 strength every third or fourth watering.  Once the seedlings have at least two sets of leaves, transplant them to larger pots if necessary.  When the plants have reached the size desired, transplant them to you garden or outdoor planter.

With practice and some trial and error, you will learn when to start your seedlings so that you are ready and going when warm weather arrives.  Happy gardening this spring!

Whitehall Mailbox Adds To Curb Appeal

Saturday, February 6, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

Image1When planning a yard design, curb appeal becomes a part of that design plan. In my case, as in other rural areas, we would call it “driveway appeal”.  But did you remember to research mailboxes as a part of that yard design?  In many places, the mailbox is the first thing a visitor will see and will set the tone of the overall curb appeal. 

After doing some research I chose a Whitehall mailbox.  They are made to enhance the look of your yard or driveway with their quality and design.    Whitehall Products have been in business since 1941 so I know that the have many years of experience in mailboxes.  Their mailboxes are hand crafted from rust-free recycled aluminum and are 20% larger than most mailboxes to hold a large amount of mail or packages.  Magazines will even lay flat in them.  They can be personalized with letters and/or numbers plaques. 

I have seen mailboxes that have sunflowers painted on them, mailboxes made into a sculpture and mailboxes that look like the wind was trying to take them away.  I prefer to choose a mailbox that is sturdy, designed to last a lifetime and that says “this is my home and welcome”.

Sandbox Safety Tips

Thursday, February 4, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

SBOX48RooF

A sandbox is a place to entertain children in an outdoor environment.  They can play trucks, make castles, pretend to have their own garden or just fill up empty buckets and bottles.

 A sandbox can seem relatively safe, but there are precautions that you can take to ensure a hazard free and safe environment for children to play in.  Keeping your children safe is always a top priority.   Review the following tips for an enjoyable sandbox playtime:

  •  Use sterilized sand or a safe-play material specifically marked for use in a sandbox.
  • Keep the sandbox covered when not is use to prevent contamination.  Make sure the cover fits tight enough that children and/or animals cannot get underneath of it.
  • Make sure that the sandbox has a effective drainage system that will not create a safety hazard for children.
  • Before each use, inspect the sandbox for contamination and safety hazards.  Examples of things to look for are sharp objects, animal feces and insects.  Use a rake to uncover unwanteds concealed in the sand.
  • Do not sterilize sand with chemicals while in the sandbox.  The chemicals can leave a residue that may harm children. 
  • Use a windbreak to protect children from blowing sand if you live in a windy area.  Effective windbreaks are fences, bushes or trees.
  • If the sandbox is made of wood materials, inspect the frame for rough areas that may cause splinters.  If splinters is a concern, look for a sandbox constructed with composite timbers made of recycled materials.
  • Replace the sand every two years or sooner as needed.

Using these tips, your sandbox will be a safe place for your children.  Let their imaginations be creative and their energy used!

What To Plant In Side Planting Planters

Tuesday, February 2, 2010
posted by Cornerstone

20090909_0388Many people have seen the upside down planting tubes to grow tomatoes in.  You may have also seen or used the planters that hold coco liners.  I prefer to use Bloom Master Planters as a side planter.  I like the Bloom Master for its re-usability and for its growth potential qualities.  I enjoy side planters for their mounding effect and have also planted some trailing planters.

I have a difficult time, when I go to the greenhouse, deciding which plants to buy for my side planters.  Some plants do very well and some look like they should do well, but don’t.  Since I have a tendency to get carried away at the greenhouse, I decided to make a list of plants that work well in side planters.  I have decided to post this list to help anyone else who has this problem also.

Sides
Wave Petunias, Supertunias, Surfinias, Cascadia Petunias, Super Cascade Petunias, Tidal Wave Petunias, Million Bells, Bacopa, Star Series Zinnias, Ivy Geraniums, Scaevola, Trailing Lobelia, Verbena (Taipan), Superbena, Nerembergia, Black Eyed Susan Vine, Nemesia, Sutera, Impatiens,Begonias, Mums, Coleus, Upright Torenia, Sweet Potato Vines, Ivy, Creeping Jenny, Lamium, Variegated Mint and Trailing Torenia.

Fun Centerpieces
Blue Salvia, Caladiums, Giant Coleus, Grasses, Pentas and Geraniums. 

Guaranteed, this is not a complete list, but it will give you a good variety to start with.  Once you are comfortable with these choices, you can always experiment with others to add to the list.  If you find a great choice that is not listed here, please feel free to let me know and I will add it.

Brief History of the Trellis

Monday, February 1, 2010
posted by MyGardenSanctuary

garden trellisTrellises are known today as beautiful garden accents, but they actually have their roots in agriculture. Before they were decoration, they were created out of a necessity to support various climbing plants. Although the use is essentially the same now, they are more for aesthetics than necessity.

Both in the present and the past, the type of plant you’re trying to support determines the garden trellis you should use. Some common examples include trellises for sweet peas, ivy, or grapevines. The trellises (of today and yesterday) are generally made of metal, bamboo, or wood.

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